Getting Started w/ 5.7x28

[Grantness]

I thought it might be a good idea to create a thread on what you need and what you need to know to get started reloading the 5.7x28.

Seeing as I have just started this process myself, Ill ask some basic questions.

First off. What dies are available for the 5.7x28?: RCBS has a steel 3 die set (ive heard bad things about this one) & a full-length 2-die set (http://www.shootnhunt.com/catalog/JM/re ... 14307.html ) & they also have a trim die. Hornady also offers a steel full-length 2-die set ( http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product ... s_id=95247 ). StateofBliss has been offering Lee custom steel full-size 2-die sets (which is what I just ordered ). Redding has a steel 3-die set (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005 ). And Lyman offers a Taper Crimp Neck Expanding M Die. That about cover it?

Press: What kind of press is best? O.K. from everything i've heard in the past, single-stage presses are the way to go for the beginner. Progressives have too much going on, and are easier to screw up. Im thinking about getting a turret press. Is that a good idea? Any reccomendations?

Trimming: What are the best ways to trim the 5.7x28? I understand its hard to find good 5.7 shellholders for trimmers. Lee makes a 5.7x28 case length gage and shellholder set ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=266946 ) to go with their cutter and lock-stud ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005 ) ...which can be used manually or with an electric drill. Is this a good way to go? Suggestions?

Primers: winchester small rifle, winchester small magnum pistol, CCI #400, any others?

And then you need basic stuff like calipers, primer/deprimer, chamfer and deburring tool, flash hole tool, trays, case lube, powder measure, scale...

What about case tumbler, media, and media seperator? Isn't there a laquer coating that u need to avoid removing?

Im sure im missing A LOT of stuff, so please let me know what else I need, and what else i need to know about 5.7x28 specific processes.

[Wollychop]

+1 on single stage with this calibre. I was reloading on a dillon 550 and my powder weights were pretty high in variation, when you consider that you may be dealing with as little as 5 to 7 grains of powder, depending on what you are using.

Moving to a pair of RCBS single stage presses (one set up with the sizing die and one with the seating die) made a really big difference.
It sounds silly to say, but when I only had one single stage press I would have to size a lot, then change out dies, set up, and seat the lot. With two dedicated presses it goes a lot quicker and you don't lose the settings you had the dies on. That was MY learning experience, anyway.

Having a reliable powder dispenser and a GOOD scale are key. It looks like true blue is the way to go with powders, though I had some success with accurate and hs6. You can get around the laquer issue by polishing with simple green. I'm definitely an amateur with this calibre, all I reload is 40 gr vmax and 55 grain fmj, but I'm comfortable with those limitations

I have to give credit where credit is due, most everything I've learned about reloading this critter is thanks to a few people on this site.

Hope this helps.

[Grantness]

Yea Wolly, that bit about the simple green was helpful.

*I just found a post from the old forum cached on google by MO about ultrasonic cleaning with simple green*

MO wrote:
I have several ultra sonic cleaners that I bought from a optician's office that had a fire. They work extremely well on cleaning frames (I use simple green in addition to water, I DO NOT use solvents as some untrasonic cleaners have the capability to start a fire when using flamable liquids) and then high pressure steam (with simple green added) and finally steam a third time with de-ionized water. I then blow dry with 300psi de-humidified air and liberally coat with Break-Free.

I also clean my 5.7x28mm brass in the ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green to protect the laquer coating.

I have been doing this for more than 10 years (on my guns) and have never had a problem with rust or oxidation of any variety (when you follow the steps outlined above), and the gun feels brand new afterwards. I have experimented with a number of cleaning agents over the years and have found Simple Green to simply be the best (and it is non-toxic and residue free).

...im not looking to do anything fancy either. It looks like you can easily surpass the performance of SS197 by using the published Accuracy #5 & #7 powder loadings for the various VMax bullets/Sierra SP Hornets.

Everyone says that you can produce rounds for way cheaper than factory rounds, but you just end up shooting more. So...thats not really my main motive. I've just been getting worried lately that one day I wont be able to get any decent factory 5.7x28 rounds. What if they neuter (even more) the factory rounds or worse, ban civi sales?

...But I digress. I have another question. Do I need a special neck sizing bushing to make sure the bullet stays put? On the old forum I remember reading about sizing down .001 or .002 inches. FN factory rounds utilize some sort of glue dont they?

[Wollychop]

The FN rounds are glued in place. EA and some reloaders here crimp. I don't have a setup for crimping the rounds. Anyone have info on that? What dies to use / modify, etc?

[moparmaniac69]

Forster products makes a "special" collet to trim the 5.7 case on their original case trimmer. You have to call them to get it. Mine was shipped out right away and I had it in hand within a couple of days.

I have the RCBS 2 die set. I know some have complained about RCBS die quality on this caliber, but I haven't had any trouble yet. I have only loaded a few hundred rounds so far.

[jmz5]

I used the Lee trimmer for a while then moved to a RCBS Trim Pro with an Elite Trim Pro plate powered by a cordless drill.

[Grantness]

what type of priming tool do you guys use? Ive been looking at the Lee Auto Prime Hand-Priming tool, but I dont know which (if any) shellholders to use.

[jmz5]

I use the Auto prime, I got the 5.7x28 shellholder, but had to modify it with a roundfile to make it work.

[Grantness]

which # shellholder was it (cant find on Midway), or was it just called 5.7x28 shellholder?

[Wollychop]

I use the priming "arm" thingamajig on the RCBS press. I size, then in the down stroke prime.

[jmz5]

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005

[Grantness]

thanks

Powder measure suggestions?

[Grantness]

OK...looks like im going to choose between the Lee Challenger Breech Lock Press and the Lee Classic Cast Press. My only concerns about the challenger is whether its frame is strong enough for full-length, and just the overall quality/strength in general.

[gw45acp]

I'd like to see a sticky with a list that is regularly updated of available and/or recommended reloading equipment and commonly used components. It could include sources as links and maybe even the current prices for production and custom dies and shell plates, etc. It would be a great resource for those looking for a shopping list.

[gw45acp]

OK...looks like im going to choose between the Lee Challenger Breech Lock Press and the Lee Classic Cast Press. My only concerns about the challenger is whether its frame is strong enough for full-length, and just the overall quality/strength in general.

If you are loading anything other than 5.7 and straight walled pistol cases, I would recommend the Classic Cast over the Challenger. I bought one and use it for sizing for 5.7, 303 Brit, 7.62X54r, .223 and .308. The Classic is extremely rigid. It is the best value on the market and compares well against the RCBS Rock Chucker.

[Grantness]

I'd like to see a sticky with a list that is regularly updated of available and/or recommended reloading equipment and commonly used components. It could include sources as links and maybe even the current prices for production and custom dies and shell plates, etc. It would be a great resource for those looking for a shopping list.

Thats a really good idea. I went ahead and added some links to most of the dies listed in my first post.

If you are loading anything other than 5.7 and straight walled pistol cases, I would recommend the Classic Cast over the Challenger.

I will only be using it for 5.7x28 and possibly .357mag/.357sig.
I know the classic cast press is way stronger than the challenger. I just like the idea of the breech lock system. If the challenger can stand up to full length sizing, then i think ill get it. Originally, i wasnt even going to consider it, because it was so cheap. But after reading numerous positive reviews on midway, i thought id give it another look. A lot of the reviewers said they were sizing full-size rifle rounds with it, and the only weakness seemed to be the toggle link http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=281260 which is easy enough to purchase spares of.

[gw45acp]

If you are loading anything other than 5.7 and straight walled pistol cases, I would recommend the Classic Cast over the Challenger.

I will only be using it for 5.7x28 and possibly .357mag/.357sig.
I know the classic cast press is way stronger than the challenger. I just like the idea of the breech lock system. If the challenger can stand up to full length sizing, then i think ill get it. Originally, i wasnt even going to consider it, because it was so cheap. But after reading numerous positive reviews on midway, i thought id give it another look. A lot of the reviewers said they were sizing full-size rifle rounds with it, and the only weakness seemed to be the toggle link http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=281260 which is easy enough to purchase spares of.

You'll be able to crank out a lot of quality ammo on the Challenger press if those are your primary calibers. You'll know when you are ready for an upgraded press for your personal needs and the Challenger will still be great for universal decapping and such. Let the spending begin!

[Grantness]

Ok I just ordered the Challenger press kit ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=121744 ) from MidwayUSA w/ an extra toggle link. Got powder trickler, bullet puller, calipers, auto-prime 5.7 shellholder & 5.7 case length gage/shellholder ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=266946 ) [press kit comes with cutter/lock stud & chamfer tool], The kit also came with a scale, powder measure (cheapo), funnel, auto-primer, sizing lube & primer pocket cleaner. I got the zip-trimmer ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005 ) to go along with the cutter/lockstud.

And I got the Lee modern reloading manual, of course.

All of this for $207 shipped!

Midway was out of CCI #400 primers as well as the winchester small rifle and small magnum pistol primers. The product description for the Lee auto-prime hand priming tool says only to use CCI or Winchester primers. Does anyone know if that is important and what other substitutes a can get?

[gw45acp]

Midway was out of CCI #400 primers as well as the winchester small rifle and small magnum pistol primers. The product description for the Lee auto-prime hand priming tool says only to use CCI or Winchester primers. Does anyone know if that is important and what other substitutes a can get?

You will be able to get a better deal on powder and primers through Powder Valley Inc since they only charge on hazmat fee and will allow you to combine powder, primers, and bullets in one package. I don't use a Lee hand primer so I can't answer that from experience, but I know of other reloaders that use Federal primers in the Lee.

One more thing: Do yourself a favor and get an RCBS 502, 505 or 1010 scale and sell the Lee powder scale. The Lee powder scale leaves a little to be desired and some call them an accident waiting to happen.

[Grantness]

yea...a good scale and powder measure will be essential.

I just placed an order with powder valley Are you required to send Powder Valley a copy of your ID if you order online?

[moparmaniac69]

I prime on my Dillon 550 on the down stroke after sizing.

[moparmaniac69]

yea...a good scale and powder measure will be essential.

I just placed an order with powder valley Are you required to send Powder Valley a copy of your ID if you order online?

I haven't ordered from there myself, but their website seems to indicate you do need to provide a copy of your DL and signed statement. Here is what the website says...

"However, Non-FFL'S must send a copy of your driver's license and a statement that the storage does not violate any Federal, State or Local Laws. If you have a FFL, we would like a copy. Please include your Phone Number."

[gw45acp]

yea...a good scale and powder measure will be essential.

I just placed an order with powder valley Are you required to send Powder Valley a copy of your ID if you order online?

I placed an order early this year and they did not require a DL.

[jmz5]

Powder Valley is where I have been getting my True Blue, they have good prices.

[tejohnson]

Very helpful post. I have been looking for a bit trying to get started since I plan to reload 9mm Luger and 5.7x28. Although I am aware I need to make a few more purchases, this is my starting list:

From Midway:

216537 Frankford Arsenal Flip-Top Ammo Box #503 38 Special, 38 Super, 357 Magnum 50-Round Plastic Orange Box of 10
484416 Lee "Modern Reloading Second Edition" Reloading Manual
515804 Lee Zip Trim
121744 Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit
605320 RCBS Model 502 Magnetic Powder Scale 505 Grain Capacity
266946 Lee Case Length Gage and Shellholder 5.7x28mm FN
856931 MidwayUSA Retail Master Catalog

From stateofbliss:

New Custom Lee 5.7x28 die set $55 ( http://57forum.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=29" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; )

I have a Harbor Freight nearby which I plan to find a solution for case cleaning. Will need more items for the 9mm. I plan on just reading and case prep before I even make any purchase on reloading supplies.

This is a project that is in tandem with another home project: a home-made desktop CNC machine...

If there is any concern with the items purchased above for a complete newb whom is learning, please speak out. Thanks!

[tdevince]

... I was reloading on a dillon 550 and my powder weights were pretty high in variation, when you consider that you may be dealing with as little as 5 to 7 grains of powder, depending on what you are using.

Initially I had the same problem. It turned out to be a build up of static charge. I attached a ground wire from the base of my 550B to house ground and that tamed the beast. Now powder charges are much more consistent from the Dillon.

[Wollychop]

( ! ) Great tip man. I'm gonna give that a try.

[tdevince]

Make sure you're electrically connected from your ground wire to the powder measure. I have a strong mount base, and the coating insulated some of the bolts from the ground wire. So I scratched the coating under one bolt heads and I then had electrical continuity from the ground wire to the bolt to the powder measure (I used a multimeter to verify continuity).

[Grantness]

tejohnson...the challenger kit is a great buy. It comes with a lot of little items that you will need such as case lube, chamfer/deburring tool, autoprime (also has press mounted primer arm which I prefer), one cutter (i ordered the 5.7 case length gage and shellholder for the trimmer, and cutter with the wooden ball grip...well worth the extra couple bucks). It comes with the Lee safety magnetic scale, which looks (and is) really cheap, but it can measure 1/20gr and is just as accurate (1/10gr) as other scales...plus it wont loose its zero unless you break the beam. Comes with lee perfect powder measure too, and primer pocket tool. Its a very good deal. You will probably also want to find a good powder trickler and some calipers are essential.

[tejohnson]

Calipers are covered, already have one set in my tool collection, but I have considered picking up another set. I snagged the 5.7 case length gauge and holder as well... Thanks for the feedback!

[f3rr37]

I have a zip trim and while they work... they can be a pain imo. I just started using my drill to trim cases, much easier.

[Grantness]

i like the zip trim. Two yanks and its done. Plus you can chamfer and deburr on it. Once you get a feel for it...you can actually trim to a longer length if you want (however, im not 100% sure that it cuts evenly for longer lengths....maybe if u were to look at it under a magnifying glass u could find out)

[f3rr37]

I always have a problem with the case not being held tight enough and it ends up slipping :wall: