Lee Factory FCD for 5.7x28

[Kilibreaux]

Lee Precision can make a Factory Crimp Die for the 5.7x28.

Quoted cost from Lee Precision is $40 plus shipping.

This is direct from Lee.

[Grantness]

That's nice to hear! Used to have to make them from 22 Hornet or 218 Bee FCDs...

It might actually be cheaper to order a couple 22 Hornet FCDs (since sometimes their cuts are too deep to use) for $5 each and modify them yourself with a simple hacksaw and sandpaper/sander. You can run a search for threads w/ instructions on how to do this. I used to sell them myself for that price...

[Rapier1772]

I think we've had some people try Lee crimp dies with unfavorable results.

That was back when they were doing them custom orders though. That is good news if they have it figured out now for regular production :thumb:

[Kilibreaux]

No this is still a custom order situation.

Actually I like the idea of the "upside down" crimp station where you can see the crimp being applied and you can adjust depth into the die using a small bushing. Such a setup eliminates any worries about how deep the slots are cut in the crimp piece. All you need to make it is ANY FCD since you're cutting from the top down....just a thought.

[s64woody]

I did make mine out of a Lee .218 BEE FCD. I guess I got lucky, but the "slots" were not too long to allow the bottom of the die and the body to be shortened to work properly.

My experience was that the small .224 caliber projectiles deform underneath the case mouth where the crimp is applied. I think that the brass "springs" back a bit, while the bullet simply deforms. It does hold the bullet in place, but bullet setback has not been a problem for me without the crimp... so far.

Not sure where I am going with the crimp, however. I have had high(er) pressure indications with the crimp applied, as predicted by EA. I may still proceed with experimentation, just to see how little crimp can be applied without too much bullet deformation and pressure spikes... (The pressure indications were spooky, and included a case neck separation on a once fired case.)

I actually an not sure that I will continue to reload this caliber. Reloading 5.7 is more an exercise in stubborn curiosity for me. It is critical to get it right, not forgiving if you make a mistake and I do not shoot it enough (right now) to save money on the project. If I could get enough once fired brass, or virgin brass, and they lasted longer, I would reconsider my position. EA is able to satisfy my needs for SD ammo, and blue tip works for range ammo (for the moment).

[Kilibreaux]

Talking about "springback" I learned the hard way when I first started loading the .400 Corbon all the trials and travails of bottleneck pistol cartridges that must endure the slam-bang cycle of a pistol.
At first I tried to rely on "case neck tension"....absolutely WILL NOT WORK in a 1911 style pistol with TC type bullets!
Then I tried "sizing" the necks after seating the bullets....HUGE mistake since this also sizes the BULLET and causes the bullet to "go loose" in the neck...worse than nothing!

Then I tried a Lee FCD...and I might point out there are NO .400" factory bullets made with a cannelure, so of course I relied on the belief that the FCD could squeeze the case neck sufficiently to hold....NOPE...not with the .400 Corbon and the abuse it must survive to make it from magazine to chamber.

THEN I went full tilt....and created a cannelure on the bullets, followed by LCD and FINALLY ended up with a blunt-nose bottleneck pistol round that could make it from magazine to chamber without changing the bullet's seating depth. For anyone who doesn't know, the .400 Corbon is very sensitive to small variations that can create pressure spikes.

The Corbon illustrates the problem of "short for caliber" bottleneck pistol cartridges combined with flat nose - truncated cone style bullets. One of the things that makes the 5.7x28 a good design is the long case body which works just like a true rifle round does in terms of preventing the cartridges from nose-diving in the magazine just enough to create chambering issues.

[Grantness]

My experience was that the small .224 caliber projectiles deform underneath the case mouth where the crimp is applied. I think that the brass "springs" back a bit, while the bullet simply deforms. It does hold the bullet in place, but bullet setback has not been a problem for me without the crimp... so far.

Not sure where I am going with the crimp, however. I have had high(er) pressure indications with the crimp applied, as predicted by EA. I may still proceed with experimentation, just to see how little crimp can be applied without too much bullet deformation and pressure spikes... (The pressure indications were spooky, and included a case neck separation on a once fired case.)

I imagine most of that deformation is due to the construction of the bullets you're using. Varmint bullets like the VMax are pretty soft. If you try it with the 27gr aluminum core SS195 bullet or a BBS/PFP/TSX bullet, you'll probably find that this won't happen so much. There aren't a lot of .224 bullets in the 5.7x28's weight range, so an FCD is practically the only way to go if you want to crimp your bullets. I haven't noticed any setback w/o crimping, so I really only feel the need to crimp for maximizing velocity and improving consistency.

Any time you apply a crimp, the pressure will rise. ALWAYS back off at least a couple 1/10gr from the load you were using uncrimped. Experimenting can be dangerous, but if you take the proper precautions and check your brass its unlikely anything major will go wrong. Personally, I don't reload much 5.7x28 for plinking or economic reasons. Like you, the challenge of exploring new territory is what keeps me at it. That, and its nice to know I can make my own SD ammo when I need it.

[DoubleJ]

I ordered me one up from Midway, and took it apart before I stuck it in my die. The collet portion is in pretty bad shape, not sure what happened, but Lee has already put one in the mail for me. Odd thing though, this is probably my fifth FCD, and it's the weirdest looking one I've seen. Anyone that has one, and it works for them, can you take it apart and post a pic? I just want to make sure all the other bits are in order before I stick it in my press. Thanks.

[satellitedr3ams]

[DoubleJ]

Thanks, I do have all those parts, and the rest seem to be in order.