My Experience Reloading 5.7x28

[Gemlin]

I just wanted to share my experiences with reloading 5.7x28 rounds.

I've been a reloader for a long long time. I recently acquired a Ruger 57 handgun and decided to reload for it. Let me say it has been a interesting experience.

Equipment:
RCBS Shell Holder & Die Set for 5.7x28
Lee 5.7x28 Resizing Die
Little Crow - Worlds Finest Trimmer

Powder : True Blue (Used load data from Ramshot's website)
Bullet: Hornady 40gr V-Max
Primers : Small rifle Primers

Case Lube :
Homemade Lanolin & Alcohol
RCBS Case Lube

I used a single stage press for reloading this. I elected not to my progressive press as i wanted to tightly control the components, inspect the brass, make sure I looked at each powder charge, etc...

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Lesson #1
My Experiment with the Case Coating REMOVED :

I started off reading what I could find on reloading 5.7x28 and particularly the brass coating. I got many conflicting claims on the internet why the coating was on the brass. Some said you don't need it for the pistols, some said you only needed it for the PS90's, some said you needed it.

I decided I would test to see exactly what the case coating was for. I elected to load 20 round in which I stripped the case coating off the brass.

(4 hours in a rock tumbler filled with Carb Cleaner - wet tumbler)

Brass had the coating completely removed. Brass was shiny and looked like any other new brass for a firearm.

I dried the brass and remove all the carb cleaner from the brass.

- Resized the Brass using the RCBS resize die.
- Loaded the brass with True Blue Powder (5.5g) & Small Rifle Primer.
- Seated Hornady V-Max Bullet 40gr

Went to the range, gun shot very accurate groups, HOWEVER was one catch! The gun was a single shot.
I had to rack the slide for every shot to load the next round. On one shot I even put a piece of painters tape on the back of the slide to grip. The slide didn't even go rearward at all.

I put a factory cartridge (factory load) in the gun, gun cycled fine.

LESSON LEARNED: The coating aids in extracting the spent brass from the gun. Without it, the brass expands so tight in the chamber that the it locks the gun up so it won't cycle. When I ran a factory cartridge, the gun did cycle fine.

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Lesson #2
RCBS Resizing Die is problematic.

(I hand washed all the brass with dawn dish soap and water)

No matter how much I lubed the brass, the RCBS resizing die would strip the coating off the brass. A result of the die stripping the coating off the brass, it would put unlubed brass in a die, and cause it to get stuck.

I elected to polish the mouth of the die and tried again. Same results, it kept stripping the coating off the brass and started to get cases stuck.

I elected to buy a Lee Resizing Die.

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Lesson #3
Lee Resizing die works well regardless what people post.

(I hand washed all the brass with dawn dish soap and water)

The Lee Resizing die would resize the 5.7x28 cases back into specs without touching the case coating. I've yet to have one piece of brass have its coating stripped. Even on 2nd and 3rd firings of the brass, the coating is still intact.

Using the Lee Resizing Die for 5.7x28
Using the RCBS Bullet Seat Die for 5.7x28
Used Little Crow - Worlds Finest Trimmer to trim the resized brass

5.5gr of True Blue, Small Rifle Primer and Hornady V-max Bullet (40gr)
This load in MY GUN mimics the factory loading of the FN Factory ammunition (The Blue Tipped V-Max Factory Loads). In my gun it has the same point of impact as the factory ammo at 10 yards. (I'll stretch it out to 25 yards soon, but when I was testing this stuff, I shot at 10 yards to check function, look at pressure signs, and groups)

::::::::::::

My final thoughts on 5.7x28

It's not a difficult load to reload as people say on the internet. You just need to make sure you don't strip the coating off the cases. I have only taken brass to 2 reloads before I let them go. I didn't want to risk a neck separating, so I'm limiting myself to just 2 reloads before trashing the brass. Primer Pockets were still serviceable at this point, again I was more worried about the necks.

I took my time reloading, paying attention and even used a Electronic Hornady Powder Measure to dispense my powder. I elected to use 5.5 gr of true blue since the Ramshot lists the MIN 5.0 to MAX 5.6 (48,800 PSI). I know there are people out there that load more true blue in the cases than I did, but I'm not out to hotrod this round or make it shoot faster than needed. (If I want to push a .224 40gr V-Max faster, I can load it into a .223 REM or a 22-250) I didn't want to chance my gun blowing up.

Use the information I've provided at your own risk. I only posted this for "Educational Purposes".

[panzermk2]

"LESSON LEARNED: The coating aids in extracting the spent brass from the gun. Without it, the brass expands so tight in the chamber that the it locks the gun up so it won't cycle. When I ran a factory cartridge, the gun did cycle fine."

This is an issue rearing it's head again with all the new Ruger owners.

This same thing went through the wringer 15 years ago plus here. You're lucky you did not have a case separation.

Something else to stay on top of keeping that chamber clean.

This applies to the Ruger just as much as the FN,

Elite Ammunition Five Seven Chamber Cleaning
https://www.bitchute.com/video/O8vuc90s0kdP/


Elite Ammunition Five Seven Firing Pin Channel Cleaning
https://www.bitchute.com/video/JNPKw1tWCN0m/


"It's not a difficult load to reload as people say on the internet. "

Yep folks been doing it for over decade.
5.7x28mm Can't Be Reloaded, BULLSH_T Yes It Can!
https://www.bitchute.com/video/JsxljTg6o1kM/

[panzermk2]

OH and if you keep the loads mild you can get 5 to 7x on the brass. If you keep the loads light about the time the coating gives out the prime pocket and neck will go.

[Gemlin]

With what people are wanting to charge for 5.7x28 ammo, more people will probably try to reload it. I just wanted to put up my thoughts and experiences out there. People can use the information I posted with a bit of caution. (Again, you shouldn't trust anything anyone posts on the net when it comes to reloading as gospel.)

Thanks for the tip on cleaning the chamber. I've been using carb cleaner to clean chambers on combloc guns for a while now. Much of that steel case, lacquered ammo. Carb cleaner really gets all the lacquer build up out of the chamber really quick. I figured the 5.7 was the same.

[Bikecowboy]

First time 5.7 reloader here.... Following info gleaned from this forum, I have ran 40 rounds in 5 shot increments. Here is my setup:

Ruger 57 pistol, (no aftermarket parts)
Hornady 5.7x28 2 die set
rcbs rock chucker single stage
rcbs case lube
Lee case length gage and trimmer
rcbs hand priming tool
Hornady shell holder#37
Husky digital calipers
Lyman micro touch 1500 scale

Once fired brass ( bought from local gun shop, appeared cleaned but not sure of the process... Although lacquer appeared to be in good shape. I sacrificed one piece of brass and scraped off the lacquer to see what it it looked like with the lacquer off. The difference between a delacquered brass and a lacquered brass was obvious in color, with the lacquered brass being slightly more dull and hazy in color, while the delacquered brass was quite shiny and darker gold in color...)

Case trimmed to 1.13"
Neck .18"
OAL: 1.58"

Accurate #7 powder
Hornady vmax 40 grain bullets
Winchester small rifle primers

Load increments:
@ 5.2 grains; 1435 -1681fps
@ 5.3 grains; 1473 - 1585 fps
@ 5.4 grains; 1452( only got one reading from my chrony)
@ 5.5 grains: 1722( only got one reading from my chrony)
@6.1 grains: 1772 & 1780(only 2 to register)
@ 6.2 grains: 1782 & 1806( only 2 to register)
@6.3 grains: 1660- 1737fps (went down?)
@6.4 grains: 1880fps (only one reading from my chrony)

Every round functioned flawlessly (which I can't say the same for my chronograph) when it came to feeding, firing and ejecting. All brass looked normal, that is to say the shoulder movement and neck lengths were similar to the factory loads (FN 40 grain vmax blue tip)
Primers appeared fine as well no bulging or flattening.

I was concerned about the standard deviation of each load, not really getting anything consistent, although the sample size was only 5 rounds per load and a lot of them didn't register.
For my first 40 rounds I was glad and excited that they all fired and ejected with no issues and that the brass looked good after the fact...
My concerns are with the high velocities that reached 1880 being too high, and the effects it may have on the brass for a third go-round.
I am also concerned about the drop in velocities in some instances where the powder load was increased... So my question is on those, would that be due to my scale not loading accurately or would it be more in line with not having crimped the necks when I seated the bullets?

[Gemlin]

I didn't crimp the bullets on mine. I generally load for accuracy. I start low and do ladder loads until I discover what my gun likes. When it comes to the 5.7x28, since I mainly punch holes in paper, I'd rather load on the lower powder charge weights so long as they function the gun. I feel this would save brass in the long run, perhaps the round wouldn't push the neck as far back. I'm sure the lighter loads will save the primer pockets.

I'm happy you shared your experience too.

[Hoosier Carry]

OK. I've been reloading 5.7 almost exclusively for about 4 years now. Coating??? What coating???? I don't worry about coating. I treat the brass almost like every other cartridge I've loaded. Yes I'm more delicate when sizing them, but other than that, it's pretty much the same. My #1 suggestion is to find as many tools for the 5.7 as you can. The best tool I have found to date is the Lee Full Size Body Die. (I could only find it on the Lee Product Site) After I am finished loading a cartridge completely, It goes to the this awesome die. You'll find out your round is NOT ready to shoot like factory when using this die at the very end. Because there is definitely resistance when you pull the lever. This means there is more sizing going on and when it comes out of that die, it's as close to factory you'll ever get! The first thing I do after buying a batch of 5.7 (500 - 1000) is ANNEAL them all! But doesn't that burn off the coating??? What Coating??? This will give me up to and sometimes more than 7 firings each! Loose primer pockets and beat up rims are the main reason they get discarded.

I use tight-fitting shell holders. I size only with a RCBS Small Base Die (Body Only) or a Lee Sizing Die also (Body Only). Then a universal expander die. I Then proceed to de-prime with a universal de-prime die. Then I use a Frankford hand primer. I then like using the Lyman Powder Drop followed by an RCBS Bullet Seater. After all of that, it goes to the Lee Full Size Body Die. It gets those shoulder "round" like 5.7 factory shoulders are. Ever since I started doing it this way and I did my part in my same routine, I have 100% feeding, firing, and ejecting in every 5.7 firearm I own and I own quite a few. I'm a 5.7 Caliber Nut Job! I use about 5 different projectiles. No need to crimp with any of them cuz all the sizing dies leave very firm neck tension.

If you all follow this routine to the "T" with the same tools I use, I guarantee a life time of success loading the 5.7 x 28mm.

[towerofpower93]

Question asked in the other thread

[Papaorca]

I have a question and I don't know where else to ask it. In my search for data to reload the 5.7x28 cartridge I read that only flat base bullets should be used. If everything is equal except the shape of the projectile base,why / how would use of a boat tail bullet create a problem?

[Papaorca]

Note to Moderator
When posting a query and receiving the message "Your message contains too few characters." what does it mean? Is the message saved somehow for further editing? I would really appreciate clarification.

[towerofpower93]

I have a question and I don't know where else to ask it. In my search for data to reload the 5.7x28 cartridge I read that only flat base bullets should be used. If everything is equal except the shape of the projectile base,why / how would use of a boat tail bullet create a problem?

I'd imagine it's coming from the idea of not wanting to eat into the already limited case capacity. As the 5.7 isn't designed to be a long-range cartridge, keeping the speed up on a shorter, lower BC, non-BT bullet is going to give you the best terminal results.

I messed with handloading 55gr Hornady FMJBT projectiles for subs, and while I didn't end up with the results I wanted (probably based on the limited and sub-optimal powders I used) I don't think the boat tail on the bullet caused any issues.

[panzermk2]

I have a question and I don't know where else to ask it. In my search for data to reload the 5.7x28 cartridge I read that only flat base bullets should be used. If everything is equal except the shape of the projectile base,why / how would use of a boat tail bullet create a problem?

You didn't read that here. That is some real bullshit since ALL of the OEM FNH ammo use boat tail bullets.

In fact flatbase are harder to load in to the 5.7 and makes it easier to crush the neck during seating.

[panzermk2]

Of the near 20 different loads manufactured by me/EA Almost ALL are boat tail .

Just because this round was not designed for long range does NOT mean it doesn't benefit from a bullet with a good BC.

[Papaorca]

Thank you for the quick reply. Often there is bogus information presented as fact and more details are needed to properly evaluate situations.

[panzermk2]

Thank you for the quick reply. Often there is bogus information presented as fact and more details are needed to properly evaluate situations.

This forum dedicated to the 5.7 and it's platforms has been cutting through the bullshit about the 5.7 for over 20 years now. Yes it's crashed a few times and we are working to get it updated right now.