Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Reloading info for the 5.7x28mm

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Wollychop
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Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by Wollychop » 23 Aug 2008, 07:55

How many folks out there crimp their rounds? What dies / setup would you recommend for doing such?

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Re: Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 23 Aug 2008, 08:23

Anybody ever attempted to approximate the factory glue, either?

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Re: Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by gw45acp » 23 Aug 2008, 09:28

Wollychop wrote:How many folks out there crimp their rounds? What dies / setup would you recommend for doing such?
I don't crimp 5.7x28 just because I really haven't had a need to do it. As I recall, Vitaliy and other members used a Lee FCD (.223 Rem die maybe?) and used a bushing of sorts as a collar to set the depth and inserted them from the top. Hopefully he will be along shortly to re-publish that. IIRC, EA tried modifying a .22 Hornet or similar sized Lee FCD, but the Lee QC was so poor on the collets that they could not be trimmed to the proper length. They were planning a custom run of crimp dies, but you'll need to check with EA to see if that is still in the works.
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Re: Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 23 Aug 2008, 09:31

I remember reading somewhere that you aren't supposed to use boat tail bullets for the 5.7x28. I just purchased some Nosler 40gr spitzer ballistic tips ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ). I didnt realize they had a slight boat tail when I bought them. Anyone ever us these or know if im going to have a problem with that little bit of a boat tail?

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Re: Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by gw45acp » 23 Aug 2008, 09:45

Grantness wrote:Anybody ever attempted to approximate the factory glue, either?
I saw some bullet sealer at Cabella's while taking my daughter on the redneck zoo tour (I love that place!). Here's the link: Markron Bullet and Primer Sealer

I also remember someone's recipe for a lacquer type sealer made with 1cc of DBP(dibutyl phthalate) dissolved in 10cc's of acetone. The simplest that I've heard about and never used is clear fingernail polish. One reloader actually dilutes it in acetone and sprays the case head and case mouth/bullet after loading to give it a more nearly water tight seal.

I'm not really worried about using sealers since I live in the desert and don't play in the water with my ammo. :D
Last edited by gw45acp on 23 Aug 2008, 22:31, edited 1 time in total.
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Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by gw45acp » 23 Aug 2008, 09:51

Grantness wrote:I remember reading somewhere that you aren't supposed to use boat tail bullets for the 5.7x28. I just purchased some Nosler 40gr spitzer ballistic tips ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ). I didnt realize they had a slight boat tail when I bought them. Anyone ever us these or know if im going to have a problem with that little bit of a boat tail?
No problem whatsoever. The SS197SR uses a Hornady 40 gr. V-Max BT. I've used both the 40 and 50 grain Noslers and they work just fine. The Nosler has excellent quality control and the length, diameter and concentricity is very consistent. You'll notice it when you check the variance in loaded OAL after loading up a batch.
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Re: Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 23 Aug 2008, 09:53

Thanks gw45acp! So at what point do u think a boat tail becomes a problem?

Im not so concerned about water damage as I am about the bullet getting pushed down into the case when it gets chambered.

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by gw45acp » 23 Aug 2008, 10:43

The only warnings about using boattail bullets came from Western Powders since their test barrel was horribly inaccurate with them. There is absolutely no problem with them and they should never become a problem. The BT design makes seating easier. They also fly better with less drag at longer distances, but that doesn't really matter much with the 5.7 round since they are generally used at ranges of < 100 yards. You should try both flat base and BT profiles and see if there is any difference in accuracy at the distances you like to shoot.

the 5.7X28 case, properly re-sized, has excellent neck tension and it is not generally necessary for the handloader to crimp or glue them in.

The only bullet setback issues I had were with the PS90 when the mag spring was weak and the bullets slammed into the receiver.

You may want to investigate crimping options, but beware of over-crimping. This can result in a deformed bullet and less neck tension since the brass case mouth has some spring back. I'm oversimplifying, but I have made that mistake. the Lee FCD is about the only crimp die I would use and it is a work-around solution since they don't make one for the 5.7.
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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by Wollychop » 23 Aug 2008, 11:52

Great info, thanks for the replies. I have only had issues with bullet setback using 55grain reloads. I do not reload a wide variety for the round, at this point just 40 gr hornady v max, 35 grain v max and whatever 55 grain fmj I can find.

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by panzermk2 » 23 Aug 2008, 13:56

Forget the glue and crimp. We have custom made crimping dies. We wanted to sell them like our shell plate holders but they were to costly for the hobby reloader. Retail price would have been around 70 dollars for a crimping die. May be once we buy a CNC machine we can bring them to market at a reasonable price.
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Re: Reloading equipment for 5.7x28mm

Post by VITALIY » 29 Aug 2008, 23:30

gw45acp wrote:
Wollychop wrote:How many folks out there crimp their rounds? What dies / setup would you recommend for doing such?
I don't crimp 5.7x28 just because I really haven't had a need to do it. As I recall, Vitaliy and other members used a Lee FCD (.223 Rem die maybe?) and used a bushing of sorts as a collar to set the depth and inserted them from the top. Hopefully he will be along shortly to re-publish that. IIRC, EA tried modifying a .22 Hornet or similar sized Lee FCD, but the Lee QC was so poor on the collets that they could not be trimmed to the proper length. They were planning a custom run of crimp dies, but you'll need to check with EA to see if that is still in the works.
I'm here guys, sorry took me a wile. But here it goes:
you can use a .223 die, if you cut portion of it from the top. It is allso nesessory to use a bushing to controll the thickness of the crimp and to keep it uniform.
Here some picktures:
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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 30 Aug 2008, 09:04

Thanks VITALIY. Thats really cool.

On my regular Lee dies, the instructions say to back-off 1/4 turn if u dont want a crimp and to turn down 1/2 turn if you do want a crimp. What kind of a job will the regular dies do? If I dont turn it either way, will the die still make a weak crimp?

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by VITALIY » 30 Aug 2008, 16:05

Grantness wrote:Thanks VITALIY. Thats really cool.

On my regular Lee dies, the instructions say to back-off 1/4 turn if u dont want a crimp and to turn down 1/2 turn if you do want a crimp. What kind of a job will the regular dies do? If I dont turn it either way, will the die still make a weak crimp?
Sir, you're welcome.
The regular roll crimp on yor sitting die will do you no good at all, couse you must use only the bullets with canelure for crimping. On the other hand modified .223 factory crimp die will crimp any bullet. Yes it will add one more step to your loading proceadure, but it is well worth it IMHO.

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 30 Aug 2008, 19:08

OK, stupid question time. For bullets like the Barnes TSX, it says to seat them about .05" of the lands. Is it instead possible to use the lands like a cannelure for roll crimping?

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by gw45acp » 30 Aug 2008, 20:11

Grantness wrote:OK, stupid question time. For bullets like the Barnes TSX, it says to seat them about .05" of the lands. Is it instead possible to use the lands like a cannelure for roll crimping?
In this context, the lands are the rifling at the end of the chamber throat that first contact the bullet. This is more applicable to bolt guns than semi-autos since the overall loaded cartridge length will be too long to fit in the magazine.

Image

Taper or roll crimping for a rifle cartridge is really only useful if you are taking the bell out of the case mouth after loading cast lead bullets or just to give the case mouth a little smoother edge by pressing it against the bullet. Too much and you can change the dimension of the bullet as well as losing neck tension in the process. YMMV
Last edited by gw45acp on 30 Aug 2008, 20:25, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by VITALIY » 30 Aug 2008, 20:16

Grantness wrote:OK, stupid question time. For bullets like the Barnes TSX, it says to seat them about .05" of the lands. Is it instead possible to use the lands like a cannelure for roll crimping?
Not stupid at all :thumb: , and yes the lands on those bullets can and should be used as canelure.

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 30 Aug 2008, 21:16

cool!

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 31 Aug 2008, 16:23

do u have the specs for that bushing?

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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by LK45s » 31 Aug 2008, 17:44

I believe in the original post he said he cut off a piece from an old gun rod. Another member said he used a faucet washer. I guess the main thing is that it is thick enough to get a light crimp.
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Re: Crimping the 5.7x28mm

Post by Grantness » 01 Sep 2008, 17:12

I was able to successfully apply a roll crimp using my Lee bullet seating die to the 45gr Barnes TSX and Banded Solids... It works great. I tested one on an unprimed case first, and was not even able to push the bullet into the case using a hammer :D

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